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Floor

Insulating under the floorboards on the ground floor will save you about £60-£75 a year, and you can seal the gaps between floors and skirting boards to reduce draughts too.

Gaps and draughts around skirting boards and floors are simple to fix yourself with a tube of sealant bought from any DIY store. Floorboards will rot without adequate ventilation so don't block under-floor airbricks in your outside walls.

Older homes are more likely to have suspended timber floors. Timber floors can be insulated by lifting the floorboards and laying mineral wool insulation supported by netting between the joists.

Many homes – especially newer ones – will have a ground floor made of solid concrete. This can be insulated when it needs to be replaced, or can have rigid insulation laid on top.

You don't need to insulate the floors of upstairs rooms in your house if they're above heated spaces (like the living room). But you should think about insulating any floors that are above unheated spaces such as garages, as you could be losing a lot of heat through those.

How much you can save

Insulating and draught-proofing your floor can be a cost-effective energy-saving measure, especially if you are able to do some or all of the work yourself.

England, Scotland and Wales

Solid Floor Insulation

Detached

Semi detached

Mid terrace

Bungalow

Approximate annual saving

£75 - £95

£45 - £60

£35 - £45

£70 - £85

Approximate annual carbon dioxide saving

1050kg

620kg

580kg

830kg

Approximate installation cost*

From £900 to £2400

 

Suspended Timber Floor Insulation

Detached

Semi detached

Mid terrace

Bungalow

Approximate annual saving

£100 - £120

£60 - £75

£45 - £60

£75 - £95

Approximate annual carbon dioxide saving

110kg

65kg

60kg

95kg

Approximate installation cost*

From £300 to £700

 

Northern Ireland

Solid Floor Insulation

Detached

Semi detached

Mid terrace

Bungalow

Approximate annual saving £110 - £130 £65 - £80 £50 - £60 £100 - £115
Approximate annual carbon dioxide saving 400 - 470 kg 240 - 280 kg 180 - 210 kg 350 - 420 kg
Approximate installation cost* From £900 to £2400

Suspended Timber Floor Insulation

Detached

Semi detached

Mid terrace

Bungalow

Approximate annual saving £145 - £170 £85 - £100 £50 - £60 £110 - £130
Approximate annual carbon dioxide saving 510 - 600 kg 310 - 360 kg 180 - 210 kg 390 - 460 kg
Approximate installation cost* From £300 to £700

The savings presented are for typical gas heated homes.*These costs are illustrative. These costs will vary depending on the level of work needed.

Insulating a concrete floor will save around the same as insulating a timber floor, but the cost will vary enormously depending on circumstances.

How to install floor insulation

Not all home insulation work has to be carried out by a professional; it may work out cheaper to do the smaller jobs yourself with materials from a DIY store. Filling the gaps between the skirting boards and the floor boards costs about £10 - £15 if you do it yourself with a sealant gun. Remember to seal any gaps between and around the floorboards when you put them back.

It's even easier to insulate your timber floor if you have an unheated cellar or basement space underneath that you can get into. Check that the joists supporting the floorboards are in good condition and don't show any signs of wet or dry rot.

If the joists are okay, you can fit insulation in between them and hold it in place with netting if necessary. The basement's 'ceiling' should then have plasterboard fixed directly to the undersides of the joists, to provide fire resistance – and you can then fit more rigid insulation underneath the 'ceiling' to benefit from even more insulation.

Rugs and carpets on the floor will also help your feet feel warmer, which might mean you don't feel the need to put the heating on as much. 

Professional floor insulation

If you don't feel confident lifting your floorboards yourself you can get a professional to do this, fit the insulation and replace the boards afterwards. Costs will vary depending on how big your house is and how easy the floorboards are to lift and replace.

For solid concrete floors, make sure that if they need to be replaced, your builder puts in insulation – you have to insulate a floor when it is replaced in order to comply with building regulations.

Solid floors are insulated using rigid insulation foam, which can be fitted either above or below the concrete. If the concrete is above the insulation it can sometimes store heat during the day, which helps keep the room warm at night. If the insulation is above the concrete the room will heat up more quickly in the morning.

You can still insulate your solid floor even if it doesn’t need replacing. Rigid insulation can be laid on top of the original floor, then chipboard flooring can be places over it. This will raise the level of the floor, so you will need to make sure doors are trimmed shorter to make room for the insulation. Skirting boards and some electrical sockets may need to be moved.

Finding an installer

If you are looking for someone to insulate your floor, Energy Saving Trust recommends you look for an installer who is a member of the National Insulation Association.

If you want to insulate your floor as part of a bigger refurbishment job, you will probably want to use your existing builder.

Complying with building regulations

If you are adding extra insulation to your floors, the work will need to comply with the relevant building regulations for where you live. Your installer will normally arrange this for you, but if you are doing it yourself, it is your responsibility to comply.

If you live in England or Wales, the floor should achieve a U-value of 0.25 W/m2K or less, if possible. The U-value is a measure of how quickly heat will travel through the floor. To achieve this standard, you will normally need at least 70mm of high-performance foam insulation, or 150mm of mineral wool, but this will vary depending on floor type, shape and size.

If you are replacing at least half of a floor then you have to insulate to these standards whether you planned to or not.

For further information, and for regulations in Northern Ireland and Scotland, contact your local Building Control Office before starting work. 

Checking your floor type

If you have a basement or cellar beneath your house that you can get into safely, take a look down there. If the floor is a suspended wooden floor, you will probably be able to see wooden joists and the undersides of the floorboards. Also, if you have air bricks or ventilation bricks on the outside wall(s) of your house that are below floor level, you probably have a suspended timber floor. If you do have these air bricks in your walls, don't block them up. They are needed to help ventilate the space under your floor and stop your floorboards rotting.

If you don't have access to the space underneath your house, you will need to lift a corner of the carpet and underlay to have a look. You don't need to insulate your floor if there is another flat beneath you.